New Guangzhou rule on handmade dim sum sparks debate on heritage food in Hong Kong

A large bamboo basket filled with different types of dim sum.

Photo: Nora Tam A new rule in Guangzhou requiring teahouses to declare whether their traditional dim sum is freshly handmade has sparked debate and calls for transparency over how similar meals are made in Hong Kong.

Guangzhou authorities on Wednesday released the new regulation on morning tea heritage protection, effective on May 1, which mandates that operators must explicitly indicate whether their dim sum dishes are made using traditional on-site methods or through non-traditional means.

The mainland legislation also stipulated a strict 24-hour freshness window from production to consumption for traditionally made items to preserve the intangible cultural heritage.

Jonathan Leung Chun, a lawmaker for the catering sector, said that while the new rule in Guangzhou had sparked a necessary debate in Hong Kong, it was also important to avoid conflating “central kitchens” with “pre-made meals”, which he described as unfair to the local industry.

He said that many of Hong Kong’s large restaurant groups predominantly used central kitchens during peak hours for standard pre-processing, including slicing and seasoning, for consistent quality and hygiene. “This is an extension of the restaurant’s own kitchen rather than the death of the craft, and it differs significantly from factory-processed, frozen ready-meals,” Leung said. “We must clarify this distinction to accurately assess the survival of handmade dim sum.” The dim sum sector faced a structural “talent severance” that machinery could not solve, he said. “In recent years, social awareness of this heritage has grown significantly, and we look forward to the government and the industry building deeper collaborative mechanisms,” Leung added. “This should move beyond basic technical training to address professional status, cultural preservation and operational subsidies, ensuring the craft is not entirely replaced by over-industrialisation.” Leung argued that restaurants in Hong Kong needed “radical transparency”. “When operators are honest about the source and nature of their products, consumers will naturally make choices based on their preferences for taste and the value of craftsmanship,” he said.

A cook preparing dim sum in the kitchen of Metropol Restaurant in Hong Kong, which closed down in September last year.

Photo: Jocelyn Tam Beyond the labelling mandate, the new Guangzhou regulation requires operators to provide various tea optio

原文链接: 南华早报